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Tuesday, 23 April 2013

The Art Of Patterndrafting Today

By Bertha Wells


Patterndrafting in the world of fashion is a highly skilled and highly developed field of endeavor. Every garment that is made must first be drafted and then constructed. It involves the process of design. It starts with an idea, and that idea grows into a visual drawing.

It included a knowledge of draping and measuring. The key to the being successful was getting these two components as accurate as possible. To achieve this the process needed to be broken down into steps that covered the entire body. A basic block or slope was used to achieve the proper results.

There are special instruments that help the pattern maker create the proper shapes. They include the French curve, the hip curve, and the straight edge. Using these tools the pattern maker can draw in the proper shape for the neckline, armhole, and hips. The paper pattern is now ready to be made after careful sizing is added to the finished product.

In order to do the proper sizing, the pattern has to be graded. This involves precise measurements for each of the different sizes. They are placed on each individual piece to show one size from another. The pattern maker has to have some skill in mathematics. Previously, the process was done manually, and this was very time consuming.

Today, technology has taken the process to a new level. It makes the task less tedious and more efficient. There are now programs that are available to the home sewer as well as the professional. They integrate the use of mathematics with creative thinking.

The computerized system can do all of the hard work. It will calculate, analyze and produce a pattern that have the right shape and the right sizing. It will even provide a image of what the garment will look like before the designer even cuts the first piece of fabric.

Computer Aid Design or CAD as it is called for short is a new technology that will create designs that are input into the computer from the user. It is so sophisticated that it will calculate, sketch, and output a complete pattern accurately. All the user has to do is print the pattern and cut it out.

This breakthrough is extraordinary because in the past this kind of sewing was only available to the very rich, or royalty. The average person could not have the luxury of well fitted garments. Thanks to the likes of Ebenezer Butterick, patterns with different sizing or grading were sold to the public.

These prototypes were printed with size adjustments. He sold them and the birth of an industry was born. This came around about the same time that the industrial sewing machine became more practical to the home sewer. The two industries together opened up the world of the home sewer, and gave freedom and more efficiency to the commercial patternmaking business.

For the first time in the history of garment making patterndrafting became a mass produced item, and everyone could enjoy the benefits. The world of fashion was no longer exclusively for the rich and well connected. The everyday woman could now have access to the latest styles and designs.




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